Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Sand Duning, Swakopmund/Sossusvlei Days 13, 14 & 15


Swakopmund: the “adventure” capital of Namibia.  Here you can do any of the following: sky diving, kite surfing, 4-wheeling, and sand boarding.

Okay, I’m familiar with the first three, but before this trip, I had never heard of “sand boarding”.  Seeing as I was pretty happy to leave the sky diving for another day, and the kite surfing for the crazies who preferred to be in the freaking freezing cold water, that left the 4-wheeling and sand boarding open for business.

Four-wheeling is just that: sitting on a big 4 wheeled bike and drive through the dunes.  And sand boarding is just like snow boarding, but on sand.

If you know me, you know that things strapped to my feet that sends me down the hill with little to no balance to guide me as I’m not what you would call “graceful” is not a really good idea.  So this whole notion did not sound so appealing to me.  However, we discovered that there was another option: sand boarding on your belly on a flat board down the dunes.  Score!

So we decided to do a 3 hour quad-bike tour combined with sandboarding.  After having a delicious breakfast and watching rugby at the German café, we headed to the sand dunes with our trusty guide, Mervin. 

These dunes are simply breathtaking.  And even more peculiar, they are literally less than a mile away from the coast.  Evidently this is common in Africa: deserts and seas in close proximity.  But being as this was new to me, I just took in the sights and got ready for our 2 hour quad bike tour and 1 hour sand boarding.

At first, I struggled to get my bearings on the bike in sand.  Mervin, evidently used to taking people on a regular basis, seems to know this, so we went fairly slowly and gently through the dunes.  If you’ve seen photos of orange sand dunes topped with deep blue skies, then you know where we drove.  Absolutely SPECTACULAR.

After about an hour of driving through the dunes, we stopped to do the sand boarding.  Since this particular company only offered the flat board lie-on-your-stomach sand board, we all seemed to be in equal ignorance on how to proceed.  At first, Anya and I felt that this was going to be too scary; going headfirst down a hill of sand?  Hmmm…

Luckily, the boys were more fearless and did it without question.  After they did it, we realized it wasn’t that dangerous.  So we went.

Freaking absolutely AWESOME!  It felt like riding down a sled in winter.  Except it was warm and the snow was orange sand.

So we went again and again and again.  After the first hill, our guide took us a wee bit higher (probably about 100 feet).  This ride was even better than the last.  We flew down that dune like we knew what we were doing.

Of course, what goes down…

I’m not sure if you’ve ever tried to walk uphill in sand, but if you haven’t, allow me to describe the experience: it’s like walking up stairs.  Stairs that sink.

Don’t get me wrong; it’s a fantastic workout.  But walking up sand that is conditioned to blow in the wind equals not very conforming when trying to climb up an 80’ hill.  But I took on the challenge as part of the adventure and climbed up up up, just so I could slide down the hill again…

After about an hour of sliding down the dunes, we continued on with the quad bikes.  This time, our guide could see the excitement in our eyes so he took us on some bigger hills, to which we rolled into like pros.  Of course, we had a few hiccups along the way: Matt’s bike broke down completely at one point, and so did Anya’s, so we had to share bikes for a while until someone from base could bring us a new bike.  But that just added to the fun!

We rounded back into the town about an hour later, to which Matt and Ron decided they were ready to take things to the next level: this particular company only offered lie-down sandboarding.  But there was another company in town that offered stand up sandboarding.  So we decided to book a morning “ride” with them the next day on our way out of town.

You’re recall my comment about not being so good with things strapped to my feet?  Luckily, they too offered lie-down boarding so while Anya and the boys strapped into snow boards, I went on my own with a huge group of British tourists and down we went, on various depths of snow dunes on our bellies.  These hills made the previous day’s excursion look like bunny slopes: our first hill down was 150’!
Matt sandboarding

But it made it more fun.  And I was grateful for the previous day’s introduction.  Because I think I would have been way more nervous doing these bigger hills, on my own without Matt or Ron and Anya doing them with me.  But no, I took to these hills with excitement and enthusiasm.  On the bigger hills they clocked our speed (I finished the last hill going 68km-41mph).  Awesome!

Of course, as I said before, what goes down…I climbed up dunes at least 7 times.  In the dry desert heat.  In sand that sinks as you walk.  You could say it was a fantastic work out. :)

Of course, no adventure can go without its mishaps.  Since the boys and Anya were doing their own thing with the stand up boarding, they were on their own hill.  Matt is an avid snowboarder (or was, in our previous life), but It’s been several years since he’s gone.  Not to mention, he’s never snowboarded on sand before.  So it is natural to know that he took some wipe outs.  Except he took two wipeouts and landed on the same place on his chest both times.  Since his hand broke his chest’s fall, he left that day pretty convinced he cracked a rib.

The injured brothers after conquering(?) the dunes
Ron, on the other hand, decided that the stand up sandboarding was too wimpy, and decided to do a run or two on the lie down board.  On the highest dune, called the “Dizzy” where you can ride down as fast as 50mph, Ron found himself slowing the sandboard down with his face.  As he reached the bottom, he shuffled forward and met the sand head-on.  The way the board is designed, you pull the front of the board up with your hands as you slide down.  As he reached the end he didn’t pull the front of the board up high enough, causing him to stumble into the sand with his face as the bumper.  Poor guy got a cut under his eye from his sunglasses that immediately turned into a black eye.

Luckily, Anya and I fared way better than the boys.  But, they didn’t let a little thing like cracked ribs and a shiner stop them from doing the Big Daddy of them all…

Literally called the Big Daddy, it’s a sand dune that reaches up to 3000’ vertical.  And we climbed it.  In less than 2 hours.  In our socks.

The British group I met while sand boarding had visited the national park the day before, and had gotten up before sunrise to see the dunes as the sun came up.  Then they walked one dune that is called Dune 45 (45 ways to walk up it?  45 meters high?  45 ways you want to kill yourself if you walk up in wrong shoes? Beats me!).  They told me the best way to walk up the dunes was in your stocking feet, as the sand gets mighty hot as the day comes on so socks act as a good barrier while not weighing you down like normal shoes (boy was he not lying.  That first day of walking up the sand dunes in running shoes certainly did not make it easier to run!).  But climbing up Big Daddy in our socks was not only easier, it was fun!  I mean, when do you walk around sand in socks? 
Not that it was easy.  Big Daddy is called Big Daddy for a reason.  A lot of vertical walking.  Uphill in sand.  But the views were spectacular.  And when we got to the top, we were blown away at the views. 
At the top of Big Daddy!!
We weren’t really sure the best way to get back down the dunes. Originally we thought we’d have to walk down the way we came until we witnessed a group ahead of us running down the side of the dune.  We all looked at each other and said, why not?  So off we went, running down the sand.  Which is actually a heck of a lot easier than walking up the sand.  And so much fun.  Ron and Matt made a game of leapfrog going down the dunes as Anya and I skipped down the way.  Of course, what we didn’t anticipate was how hot the sand would feel…on our legs.  We literally got burned on our calves from the heat of the sand.  Not the sun.  The sand.  But that didn’t stop us.  We just kept hopping and running down the dune until we reached the bottom (it was sooo much faster getting down than it was getting up!!) and was met with a massive saltpan.   From here we walked across the saltpan (mirages included) to the car.  We were appropriately wiped out.  And full of sand in all parts of our bodies.

Overlooking a saltpan in the desert
Flat tire in the middle of nowhere
After 3 days of playing in the sand, we said farewell to Swakopmund/Sossuvlei and headed to more mountainous areas. But not without a little more adventure: a flat tire in the middle of nowhere.  Luckily we had two strapping young men to fix it, once they could figure out how to use the tools the rental van left us, we headed out of Soussuvlei an hour later than planned but still full of happy memories of our days in the sand.  I think some of our biggest fun happened in the Namib Desert.  It was definitely a walk I will remember.





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